Édition Septembre 2026 — September 2026

Editorial: Hands Off Our Grapes!

The summer now ending will serve as a warning: heatwaves, drought, scorching, hailstorms, and the giant fire that saw 42,000 hectares of Gironde forest burned have given climate risk a very palpable reality. We know it: it will demand adaptive cultivation practices, innovation and investment. At the same time, Bordeaux is facing a very deep market crisis: de-consumption, flagging exports, crushed prices, rising stocks, raw cash flow. The courts are recording record numbers of legal proceedings and vines are being pulled up. Since 2010, the Gironde has lost a quarter of its vineyard area.

The injunctions to the players in the wine industry go round in circles: “adapt!”; “produce differently”; “cut your costs”; “find new consumers”; “export”; “open your cellars to wine tourism”, and so on.

Very well. But they would also need to be allowed simply to get on with their trade, because for the moment they are submerged in a sea of paper. They are asked to be more agile while being weighed down with ever-heavier standards.

 

The administrative straitjacket has a cost

The State itself concedes it: the industry is “over-administered”. The Senate has counted 86 potential declarations and 54 portals, and estimates that a winegrower loses nine hours a week to them (more than a working day) in harvest, stock, movement, planting, grubbing-up and enrichment declarations, the traceability register, calculation of excise duties, VAT on en primeur deposits, export formalities, specifications, approval, labelling, nutritional QR codes, packaging, employment law, safety, environment, GDPR, and so on. Our readers know the list and suffer from it to the point of suffocation.

This over-administration has a cost. It is paid for in experts’ fees, in service providers, in software, in time lost in front of an online service. It is also paid for in delayed decisions, in moral exhaustion and sometimes in human despair.

For while a large group can absorb the standard, the same cannot be said of a small business, where the same man prunes, vinifies, sells, hires and files declarations.

 

The rule must serve the activity

Let there be no misunderstanding: it is not a question of abolishing the rule. We are pleading here for a useful rule. Wine needs it and our appellations contrôlées are largely its product. It is good when it protects the consumer, the producer and the employee, and when it leads a sector towards greater efficiency.

The French administrative reflex has long been diagnosed. For an identified problem, its iron rule. Then a clarification. Then an exception. Then a declaration to verify the exception. And an inspection to finish.

Aware of the problem, our leaders regularly call for “simplification”, but this almost always ends in replacing a paper with a screen, and for the “user” a digital Cerfa form is sometimes more paralysing than a paper Cerfa.

Lightening the load must become a discipline and common sense a line of reform. Measure the cost of an obligation before imposing it. Erase the one that duplicates. Assess risk situations first before imposing the same procedure on thousands of operators. And why not go all the way? When a rule no longer has any demonstrable usefulness, abolish it.

 

 

Support rather than penalise

In an industry in acute crisis, the relationship with the public authorities must also become more flexible. When farms are fighting for survival, the collective interest first demands preserving activity, employment and the capacity to undertake.

For our businesses do not compete alone on their market. In southern Europe as in the New World, many of our competitors have gained in flexibility, speed and capacity for adaptation. We cannot ask French viticulture to run faster while leaving it with the weight of disproportionate constraints at its feet.

There is a question of simple common sense here: when the vineyard is suffocating, the vice must be loosened.

Administrations and professionals basically have the same interest: solid businesses that invest, employ, export, pay their taxes and prepare for the future. In the period we are going through, supporting their adaptation should therefore be a shared priority. Control remains necessary; it simply needs to find its proper place again, in the service of activity rather than to its detriment.

 

The work sites of the coming world

And above all, let us look ahead. While we devote so much energy to the straitjackets of the old world, a technological revolution is in preparation.

Biotechnologies have already begun to transform viticulture.

Upstream, genomics makes it possible to modify the characteristics of the plant and to select varieties resistant to disease, heat or water stress. Microbiology opens another field: steering yeasts, bacteria and microbiota; preventing certain deviations; preserving quality in a new climatic context. Biocontrol, sensors capable of detecting the DNA of downy mildew spores even before symptoms appear, imaging and genetics will make it possible to treat less and better.

Then come robotics and artificial intelligence. Robots already work the soil or weed. Self-guidance is progressing. Computer vision, sensors and artificial intelligence will make it possible to detect diseases and deficiencies very early, estimate yields, rationalise treatments, monitor each plot with new precision and, tomorrow, automate part of the heavy work. AI will also upend the downstream: cellar management, data analysis, sales forecasting, logistics, customer relations and market access.

 

Preparing the industry for the technologies of tomorrow rather than perfecting yesterday’s forms.

These technologies will upset existing structures and raise ethical, regulatory and legal questions: data ownership, technological dependence, employee qualifications, security, the future of terroirs and of wine identity.

How are our supervisory authorities preparing French viticulture for this? These are precisely the subjects on which the State, Europe and the professional organisations have a role that private enterprise cannot fill: anticipating, funding research, organising trials, setting a framework that is stable in its principles and agile in its application.

Let us therefore put the public effort where it shifts the destiny of an industry, and please, give the winegrower back his trade and take your hands off his grapes!

The Éditions Féret team

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