Who are you? Tell me about Château des Annereaux
I am 42. I joined my father in 2013 after studying business and then setting up a company in Paris before returning to Bordeaux. It quickly became clear that I would first help my father and then take over the reins of Les Annereaux, which has been in the family for 600 years. Les Annereaux is the name of my ancestors.
My father was based in the Médoc – at Châteaux Moulin à Vent and Tour Blanche, to name but two – because part of Les Annereaux had been sold to a négociant in the 1970s. In 2004, my father bought back the remaining 50% by selling the Médoc estates. A sentimental purchase that allowed us to take production back into our own hands and recover a family property.
Since 2016, I have run the estate alone, supported by the consultant Axel Marchal, for whom I have great esteem and who makes a significant contribution every year to our progress and our constant search for excellence.
I have 23 hectares in the Lalande-de-Pomerol AOP and 2 hectares in the Bordeaux AOP. Château des Annereaux has been organic since 2010. That was my father’s wish and, it must be said, he was quite a pioneer in his field. He was an agricultural engineer, an oenologist and, for a time, a salesman of plant protection products. That is not unconnected, I imagine, with his desire to move towards more virtuous viticulture. The château is also the first B Corp-certified property in Bordeaux, a recognition of our commitment to the environment and social responsibility.
What did your father keep telling you when you started?
He always advised me not to follow trends and fashions. He never followed the Parker fashion, for that matter. Even today, we use few new barrels, to respect our Merlot, whose first quality remains fruit and elegance. In terms of ageing, I added a 50-hectolitre wooden vat to have something less marked, still with the aim of preserving the fruit. Today, without intending to, we fit a trend. In any case, I strive not to follow fashions blindly. If you stand firm and are in tune with your production, you will keep your consumers loyal. I refuse to adopt extreme principles; balance remains paramount.
How can we envisage a way out of the crisis?
Sincerity pays in the end. I think we are seeing a pendulum effect. I know that people will drink Bordeaux again, so I think it is important to remain faithful to one’s principles and not to give in to the temptation of throwing everything overboard to meet a fleeting current demand. I would therefore say that we must not betray ourselves and must always seek optimal quality; I believe a great deal in the “product”.
I also think it is essential to showcase winegrowers better, in particular by putting them more to the fore on labels. In Bordeaux, the role of winegrowers is still valued far too little, unlike in regions such as Burgundy or the Rhône.
What do you think of the craze for natural wines or
sulphite-free wines?
I fear the homogenisation of natural wines through faults; that is a trend that really must be fought. The notion of terroir must remain at the heart of tasting. We will need to win back these enthusiasts and first-time tasters, who might otherwise, one fears, pick up a bad habit.
Does Merlot have a future?
I have pulled up Merlot to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, which is extraordinary here. Merlot was perfect in 2022, a very hot vintage; the vine is resilient and so is Merlot. Even with high alcohol levels, it stays fresh and digestible. I don’t believe Merlot is living its last hours; here again, the essential thing is to preserve a perfect balance in the wine.
As for whites, do you make any?
I have 2 hectares in Bordeaux on which I produce wines, though I don’t have enough. I have created a small négoce structure that allows me to source other quality organic wines that I blend with my own wine. That way I can offer friends’ wines and whites, for which demand is increasing!
And what about 2024 in all this?
The 2024 wines will by default be fresh and low in alcohol, perfectly meeting consumers’ expectations in red. It is important not to have only great vintages, but also wines to enjoy quickly. That said, with 80% hail damage this year, my production will be very limited.
